Lead replacement additives - advice, please! (Essex V6)

[Ed Hughes]

I use a 1966 Land-Rover with a Ford Essex V6 engine conversion (lovely old
thing!) to do local trips towing a powerboat, carrying canoes and
windsurfers etc. The last garage selling LRP locally is ceasing to do so
shortly, leaving me with a problem.

I suspect that unleaded would damage this engine in time, which leaves some
form of additive as the only practicable option. Driving any distance to get
LRP elsewhere - even if available - isn't that practical at 13 mpg....

When I looked at this some years ago, there were a number of additives
available of presumably variable quality and effect (and cost!) and I guess
that time and experience has shown which work, and which don't.

Any guidance on what to use, where it can be bought, and at what cost would
be much appreciated.

Thank you!


Ed. Hughes


(Perhaps I should add that I am aware that having the heads removed and
hardened valve seats fitted is an option, but I guess that this would cost
in the hundreds to have done, as it is outside my skill remit. As the
vehicle only covers around 1500 miles a year, the cost/reward relationship
for this isn't great).

[Jeremy]

In article <4296faa4$0$532$***@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net>, Ed
Hughes says...

Post by Ed Hughes
Any guidance on what to use, where it can be bought, and at what cost would
be much appreciated.

I use an additive in my Spitfire 1500 - abou a fiver IIRC from Halfords.

[Yippee]

Post by Jeremy
Hughes says...

Post by Ed Hughes
Any guidance on what to use, where it can be bought, and at what cost would
be much appreciated.

I use an additive in my Spitfire 1500 - abou a fiver IIRC from Halfords.

I use unleaded and no additive in my Spitfire 1500. No valve seat
recession at all over the last 20,000 miles. The big end bearings
definitely need doing more often than the valve seats.

[Willy Eckerslyke]

Post by Ed Hughes
(Perhaps I should add that I am aware that having the heads removed and
hardened valve seats fitted is an option, but I guess that this would cost
in the hundreds to have done, as it is outside my skill remit. As the
vehicle only covers around 1500 miles a year, the cost/reward relationship
for this isn't great).

For that sort of mileage, just use straight unleaded. Buy a pair of
spare heads if you see any going cheap, but you'll probably never need them.

[Ken Parker]

If only doing low mileage use Shell Optimax

[Adrian]

Post by Ken Parker
If only doing low mileage use Shell Optimax

And that'll prevent VSR how?

[Stuffed]

Post by Adrian

Post by Ken Parker
If only doing low mileage use Shell Optimax

And that'll prevent VSR how?

Lower combustion temps with standard tuning than using plain unleaded?

[Willy Eckerslyke]

Post by Adrian

Post by Ken Parker
If only doing low mileage use Shell Optimax

And that'll prevent VSR how?

Same way it'll prevent damage from falling elephants.
I've been using it for miles and not suffered from either.
Seriously, I'm becoming convinced that VSR only occurs in extreme
circumstances or in exceptionally prone engines (dunno if the Essex in
question falls into the latter category).

[R.N. Robinson]

Post by Willy Eckerslyke

Post by Adrian

Post by Ken Parker
If only doing low mileage use Shell Optimax

And that'll prevent VSR how?

Same way it'll prevent damage from falling elephants.
I've been using it for miles and not suffered from either.
Seriously, I'm becoming convinced that VSR only occurs in extreme
circumstances or in exceptionally prone engines (dunno if the Essex in
question falls into the latter category).

By now the engine has probably built up a lead memory so the valves and
seats should be pretty well protected for a long while yet. After all it's
not as though you went howling up and down the motorways of the country in
the thing.

If you do decide to add jollop to unleaded, the ones on the market are
based on a variety of chemicals and it is not supposed to be a good idea to
mix them, so find out what LRP uses and get something based on the same
stuff. Quite honestly, though, I wouldn't bother. Just check the valve
clearances occasionally - shouldn't be too difficult to get at ;-)

Ron Robinson

[Yippee]

Post by Ed Hughes
I suspect that unleaded would damage this engine in time,

It takes a l o n g time. If you only use the car for the occasional
short trip, I wouldn't bother with additives. It's not worth the trouble
and you'll be surprised how long it lasts. By the time you grow tired of
adjusting the valves (the ones in my Spitfire hardly needed any
adjusting over the last 20,000 miles of running on unleaded), you can
always have hardened valve seats put in.

YMMV, of course. Literally.

[Yippee]

Post by Yippee

Post by Ed Hughes
I suspect that unleaded would damage this engine in time,

It takes a l o n g time. If you only use the car for the occasional
short trip, I wouldn't bother with additives. It's not worth the trouble
and you'll be surprised how long it lasts. By the time you grow tired of
adjusting the valves (the ones in my Spitfire hardly needed any
adjusting over the last 20,000 miles of running on unleaded), you can
always have hardened valve seats put in.
YMMV, of course. Literally.

Out of interest, what timing set up have you got set up on your Spit (10 deg
BTDC or 8)?

I set it statically - like the book says - at 10 deg BTDC and it runs
perfectly. This is after a rebuild, in which the valve seats showed no
discernable wear from at least 20,000 miles of running on unleaded. The
rebuild involved new main bearings, new timing chain, a rebore, new
pistons, new valve guides, camshaft regrind and new ignition from the
coil onwards. No pinking after the rebuild.
I used to set the ignition by ear, which always turned out between 8 and
10 deg BTDC, and I often had some slight pinking under load. That's on
98RON petrol.

What air filters (K&N or standard box element)?.

K&N filters, extractor manifold and a freeflow exhaust. That's why I
changed the damper springs and needles in the carbs, too, though I can't
remember what's in there now. It's been ten years since I did all that.

I have just
completed a round trip of 360 miles around Yorkshire Dales, using a tank of
LRP and part tank of unleaded. Both gave pretty decent pulling power, but
both pinking under load (generally 3 & 4th with overdrive on, and most
noticeable on pulling away from halt position for a few seconds).

You may get this effect if the carbs are running lean. They may well be
with K&N filters.

No
significant temp rise. My timing set up at 10 deg BTDC with K&N filters and
colortuned for mixture set up before start of journey. (1978 Spit 1500).
Considering 8 deg timing set up - any other tips??

With K&N filters, I'd consider stronger damper springs, richer needles
or both. Check if the vacuum advance mechanism on the dizzy still works
like it should.

Do you know if the engine's head has been shaved multiple times in the
past? How old is the timing chain? What spark plugs are in there? How
are the carbs? Any play in the throttle or mixture shafts?

Regards, Tom

I've replied to your e-mail in the newsgroup. I believe in keeping the
discussion here, so others can chip in or learn.

[p***@not.a.real.address.com]

On Fri, 27 May 2005 11:46:59 +0100, "Ed Hughes"

Post by Ed Hughes
I suspect that unleaded would damage this engine in time, which leaves some
form of additive as the only practicable option. Driving any distance to get
LRP elsewhere - even if available - isn't that practical at 13 mpg....
When I looked at this some years ago, there were a number of additives
available of presumably variable quality and effect (and cost!) and I guess
that time and experience has shown which work, and which don't.

You could do what I do, hit the closest airfeild and buy 5 gallons of
100LL, don't even dream about putting it in the Rover, put it in a 5
gallon gascan. When you go to fill up, put a gallon in the tank, then
fill with whatever is cheapest.

SteveL

[Roger Glover]

Post by Ed Hughes
When I looked at this some years ago, there were a number of additives
available of presumably variable quality and effect (and cost!) and I guess
that time and experience has shown which work, and which don't.
Any guidance on what to use, where it can be bought, and at what cost would
be much appreciated.

With this, it appears that you can 'roll your own'

http://www.tetraboost.com/

Normal disclaimers.
Roger

[Jim Warren]

Post by Roger Glover
With this, it appears that you can 'roll your own'
http://www.tetraboost.com/
Normal disclaimers.
Roger

I have been using this in my PI, after looking into the possibility of doing
an unleaded conversion and finding out that the fuel pump uses the lead in
the petrol for lubrication, and for an unleaded conversion I had to replace
the pump as well as modifying the head. It works very well, but it is not
cheap (minimum quantity cost 110 quid, but for that you get a dozen bottles,
each of which treats 110 litres of petrol at the concentration I use).

In my 2000, I have been using RedLine Lead Substitute, available from Delta
Oils by mail order (01476 861195). I can't remember the exact price but it
is around 13 quid for a bottle that will treat 100 gallons, and they do a
discount on orders of 3 bottles or more. I started using it after risking
unleaded alone and burning out a valve during a 100 mile trip down the M4 -
so much for the acclaimed lead memory! In my opinion, this product works.

Others in the NG have used Castrol Valvemaster, and seemed happy with it. I
have never tried it myself though.

Jim