Discussion:
gasket sealant
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George Weatherley
2003-11-28 13:54:52 UTC
Permalink
HI,
Just wonder what sort of stuff you guys out there use to seal cork gaskets
such as those on thermostat housings I have tried a couple of different
types on my Austin Cambridge and after a few days they start weeping again,
I also when I took it off made sure the surface was flat and un damaged as I
have heard that housing can get damaged easy anyone got any tricks out
there??
Thanks
George
MrCheerful
2003-11-28 17:11:24 UTC
Permalink
Post by George Weatherley
HI,
Just wonder what sort of stuff you guys out there use to seal cork gaskets
such as those on thermostat housings I have tried a couple of different
types on my Austin Cambridge and after a few days they start weeping again,
I also when I took it off made sure the surface was flat and un damaged as I
have heard that housing can get damaged easy anyone got any tricks out
there??
Thanks
George
The best for this is the purpose designed grey sealant , loctite 5699, car
shops sell it. It is expensive about 5 pounds for a tube but it works well.
Alternately use body seam sealer , comes in a mastic type tube, made by TEX,
very similar to the loctite stuff. I used to get the Suzuki crankcase
sealant which again is like the Loctite stuff but even dearer.

MrCheerful
R L Driver
2003-11-28 18:35:38 UTC
Permalink
Post by George Weatherley
HI,
Just wonder what sort of stuff you guys out there use to seal cork gaskets
such as those on thermostat housings I have tried a couple of different
types on my Austin Cambridge and after a few days they start weeping again,
I also when I took it off made sure the surface was flat and un damaged as I
have heard that housing can get damaged easy anyone got any tricks out
there??
Thanks
George
The thermostat housing is still flat isnt it? These castings can easily
distort making sealing them nearly impossible . If its not flat , then time
for a bit of filing.
Steve the grease
Dave Baker
2003-11-28 18:46:45 UTC
Permalink
Subject: gasket sealant
Date: 28/11/03 13:54 GMT Standard Time
HI,
Just wonder what sort of stuff you guys out there use to seal cork gaskets
such as those on thermostat housings I have tried a couple of different
types on my Austin Cambridge and after a few days they start weeping again,
I also when I took it off made sure the surface was flat and un damaged as I
have heard that housing can get damaged easy anyone got any tricks out
there??
Thanks
George
Ordinary clear silicone general purpose sealant at £3 or less for a 300ml tube
from B&Q or a DIY shop. That's what I've used for years on all my race engines
on sump, water pump and all other gaskets except head gaskets. Nothing
supposedly purpose made at several times the price does a better job.

Ideally on modern engines with catalytic convertors you want silicone that
doesn't release acetic acid as it cures but that won't be a concern for you.

Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines (www.pumaracing.co.uk)
I'm not at all sure why women like men. We're argumentative, childish,
unsociable and extremely unappealing naked. I'm quite grateful they do though.
Dave Plowman
2003-11-28 19:40:37 UTC
Permalink
Post by George Weatherley
Just wonder what sort of stuff you guys out there use to seal cork
gaskets such as those on thermostat housings I have tried a couple of
different types on my Austin Cambridge and after a few days they start
weeping again, I also when I took it off made sure the surface was flat
and un damaged as I have heard that housing can get damaged easy anyone
got any tricks out there??
The ally housings do distort, and the faces can get gouged. Get a piece of
plate glass and some 400 wet or dry, and machine it flat by rubbing it
over the combination. Needs a little skill to keep it flat while doing
this.

It shouldn't need any gasket gunge if it's flat - a drop of grease will be
good enough. But if it does, I still think Hylomar takes some beating.
--
*The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered.*

Dave Plowman ***@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Richard Porter
2003-11-28 21:39:40 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dave Plowman
It shouldn't need any gasket gunge if it's flat - a drop of grease will be
good enough. But if it does, I still think Hylomar takes some beating.
I entirely agree. I just smear the gasket with a little heavy grease
and don't tighten the studs too much. Hylomar of Hermetite Red would be
much better than DIY sealant if you need it. Also put a bit of copper
grease on the studs so the cover doesn't get corroded on.
--
Richard Porter
Mail to username ricp at domain minijem.plus.com
"You can't have Windows without pains."
George Weatherley
2003-12-01 11:28:04 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for all your ideas i shall start by doble checking the houseing face
is flat and try and seal it without sealant i will let you know how i get
on. Just need a dry day now.
Thanks again
George
kevin Farber
2021-05-09 13:31:38 UTC
Permalink
I was wondering. I'm replacing the gasket for the carb on a 1977 mainer outboard. Should I use a salant
--
For full context, visit https://www.motorsforum.com/classic-uk/gasket-sealant-2757-.htm
Indy Jess John
2021-05-09 20:22:47 UTC
Permalink
I was wondering. I'm replacing the gasket for the carb on a 1977 mainer outboard. Should I use a sealant?
I have never worked on an outboard, but I don't imagine that they are
significantly different to any other type of engine, other than the fact
that the gasket really does need to be water tight in an environment
where spray is going to be present.

I advise you to clean the mating surfaces, whatever was or was not used
to seal the gasket you are taking off. Then it depends on what the
replacement gasket is made of.

Cork ones don't need any sealants for gaskets but I have found that they
seal best with a film of grease on the mating surfaces.

Corrugated metal ones normally seal OK as they are, provided you tighten
them evenly, but if you are a "belt and braces" type then a gasket
sealant doesn't harm them.

Paper or multi-layer gaskets definitely need sealant. There are two
types, one seals and sets hard (eg "Green Hermetite") and you don't want
that one. "Red Hermetite" sets semi-hard and allows easy future removal,
and this is the one you will want. The alternative to "Red Hermetite" is
"Blue Hylomar", which I think is slightly better but there isn't a lot
in it. To confuse you even more there is a "Red Hylomar" which is
designed for use on pitted surfaces, and it sets harder than the Blue
Hylomar but not as hard as Green Hermetite. Only use that one if you do
have pitted surfaces.

Try to avoid any sealant getting inside the gasket opening. You really
don't want that being sucked into the engine.

Jim

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